A large part of the film's look is Dom's look, which became a collaboration between
Shepard, Law, costume designer Julian Day and hair and make-up artist Wakana Yoshihara. "It was
a long process, but I knew that once we found a look for Jude, he could escape into that look and
really find Dom," says Shepard.
Costume designer Day, who recently worked on SALMON FISHING IN THE YEMEN and
DIANA, was thrilled with the prospect of bringing a new twist to a classic costume
genre. "Having read the script and after meeting Richard, I realized his love for British cinema and I
wanted to create a modern look with a twist on 1970's British gangster films," he explains. "Richard
was a fantastic director to work with, as he has an encyclopedic knowledge of films, and is an
incredible collaborator. He was involved on all levels of the process of designing the clothes."
For Dom, Day honed in on a man stuck in a fashion time warp. "Dom's clothes were great
fun to create," he remarks. "I worked with a great tailor, Murat Ozkan of William and George Ltd, to
produce a suit that looked great on Jude -- but also looked like he hadn't worn it for many years. Even
thought it appears ill-fitting in places, Jude managed to look impeccable at all times, even when
rolling down a muddy hill in torrential rain."
Law felt the clothes captured the man. "The little touches that Julian brought were brilliant,"
says Law. "Dom has been in the bubble of prison, out of society. But also as a man, he lives a
whisky-fogged lifestyle of self-denial and escapism, so he comes out not only wearing the clothes of a
man of twelve years younger, but the clothes of a man who was always out of sorts anyway. Julian
was clever in that he cut everything Dom wears so that it pinched in all the wrong places. All of that
adds layers and helps tell the story of a guy out of time and out of touch with who he is in the world."
Day also had a blast with Dickie's attire. "Richard E Grant's clothes are a definite throwback
to the 60's -- they are like PERFORMANCE crossed with THE ITALIAN JOB -- but my main
influence was Hunter S. Thompson, one of the greatest style icons," he says. Day also admits: "I
used my own 60's yellow tinted sunglasses to finish off Dickie's impeccable taste in clothing."
He equally enjoyed the film's full cast of characters, each one a work of fashion eccentricity
in his or her own right. "This film was one of the most enjoyable jobs I have ever worked on," he
concludes, "with a fantastic cast and crew and great characters to design for."
Hair and make-up designer Yoshihara, whose film work ranges from SKYFALL to TINKER,
TAILOR, SOLDIER SPY to HARRY POTTER, altered Law's facial features substantially. At first
the designer found it hard to imagine that someone of Law's looks and build could morph into the
character she had read in the script, but over time, the look was honed into something that came alive.
In researching several well-known East London gangsters, Yoshihara found that many had
broken noses and facial scars, and she wanted to add that touch of mystery to Dom Hemingway. "I
thought that it would be great for the audience to wonder what might have happened to create his
various scars and features," she explains.
Law bears a custom-made set of prosthetic teeth that give him that Dom smile and wears an
uncomfortable device that sets Dom's broken nose at an angle. "We gave him golden teeth, but
nicotine-stained gold. So when he smiles, you can see how many cigarettes he's smoked in prison,"
Yoshihara laughs. "We also applied lots of pigmentation to make him look like a person who hasn't
taken care of himself, layering shades to create a perfectly unhealthy look."
All of those details were essential, of course, to making the film feel as real as it does
outrageous. But the inexplicable magic came when the cameras rolled and Law submerged his entire
self beneath the boiling surface of Dom's persona.
Having embedded himself so intently, Law says he won't soon forget Dom Hemingway or
the surprising outcome of his escapades. "Playing Dom was an exhausting process and I developed
some very bad habits which took a while to shake off," he confesses. "But I learned a lot from him.
I'll miss him. I loved being him and loved having him in my life. That sounds terribly sentimental,
but he's got a quality that is very attractive. He can't help but be himself, even if that self is very loud
and sometimes appalling. The best way to describe Dom Hemingway is that he is indescribable."
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