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XXX
Costumes And Tattoos "I knew that Rob
wanted the whole movie to really be on the cutting edge of fashion," says
costume designer Sanja Milkovic Hays "the idea was to not try and show what's
happening now, but what will be happening in the near future." Hays was the
perfect choice as costume designer, not only because she had already delivered
the goods for Cohen in her rendition of street racing culture in The Fast and
the Furious, but also because as a European herself, Hays understands the
differences between the American and continental looks.
"Sanja doesn't
think about what's hip," notes Cohen. "She just does it, and it is
hip. We kept our main cast pretty realistic, and placed all the high style stuff
around them. Sanja has an eye both for what will become a character and also
inform the audience what that character is really all about. It was fun to give
her the freedom to really play and make such a colorful tapestry of costumes,
which are a critical element to Xander's journey."
To begin with, Hays had
to appropriately attire Vin Diesel as Xander Cage. Xander definitely has his own
sense of style, including a big, shaggy coat for the Prague winter. "I
wanted Xander to have a little bit of a wild animal look," Cohen recalls,
"and I always thought of Vin like a bear. You know, he's cuddly, but also
very dangerous and powerful."
"I loved working
with Asia Argento," enthuses Hays. "She understands fashion and knows
how to wear clothes, so even though her character is edgy, we decided not to go
for a street punk look. Luckily, fashion was on our side because a lot of big
designers are making fashion that flirts with being street, but is still very
stylish. So we went for big name designers creating a kind of bratty look that
Yelena has."
"With Marton
Csokas as Yorgi," Hays continues, "we again made a decision to stay
away from punk. I'm Eastern European myself, and we tend to dress up, unlike
Americans, who tend to play down what they wear. When Eastern Europeaners have
money, they tend to show it through their clothes. So we went with Marton
wearing really expensive clothes, with a tough edge."
Hays certainly had no
problem outfitting Samuel L. Jackson. "He's just a pleasure to dress.
Whatever you put on him, you just go ‘Wow.' It's not the suit, it's the man."
Hays and her team
dipped deeply into the wellsprings of their creativity when they came up with
the outrageous designs for the concert, rave and nightclub denizens, aided and
abetted by the hair and makeup departments. "Rob told me that he wanted me
to help create a different world," Hays informs. "We researched what's
happening in European fashion nowadays and just took it a little further. My
favorite was the vaulted ‘zither bar,' because Rob wanted to see Eastern
European wealth, with fur, feathers, lace, like a new millennium version of the
continent's old opulence."
Another important
aspect of the film's style are the flamboyant tattoos that adorn Xander Cage,
Yorgi and even Yelena. The tattoos are crucial to Xander's character, even to
the point where his code name--XXX--is taken from the three X's tattooed on
the back of his neck. Tattoos are very much a part of action sports culture, and
Diesel and Cohen were determined to remain true to the traditions.
"Basically, tattoos should mean something to you," notes freestyle BMX
star Rick Thorne. "A lot of tattoos I have are kind of spiritual, or
reminders of things in my life that I want to improve."
Xander's tattoos were
designed by Adrian Gallegos with input from Cohen, Diesel and Christien Tinsley,
his makeup artist. "The tattoo construction was as much a part of Xander's
personality as anythi
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